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Painting in Watercolor: Catherine's Portrait by Margaret
Crowley-Kiggins, FWS
Introduction: Many
artists are intimidated by faces. In this demonstration, using an accurate light pencil
drawing as a guide and the original photograph as reference, I will show how to paint a
woman's face. This painting took approximately 3 hours to complete, having to allow for
drying time. I used only one brush, a Winsor Newton Series 7 size 7 round, for the entire
painting because I want to point out that if you purchase high quality materials to start,
you'll find that you will need fewer items and will be happier with the results.
Click on any of the below images for more detail.

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Equipment: The brushes I use for my paintings
are as follows: "Jeanne Dobie Brush" Cheap Joe's Art Stuff, size 1 1/2",
pure ox hair. This is great for large wash areas, it holds a ton of paint. Grumbacher
Aquarelles, style 6142, sizes 1" and 3/4". These are great for smaller wash
areas. Winsor Newton Series 7 Rounds, sizes 10, 8, 7, 4. I use these on the subject of the
painting mostly. They are great for detail and because of their quality they hold a great
deal of paint and yet are able to come to a very fine point, even in the larger sizes.
They are very expensive, but are worth it because they are miles in front of the other
brushes, in my opinion. An assortment of sponges - Elephant Ear, Silk Sponge, and Sea
Sponge. I use these for everything from cleaning my palette to moistening areas of the
paper. They are also useful to roll your brush on to get rid of excess water before
applying paint. Q-Tips. These are a very useful tool when you are painting detail in a
small area. They can take up small areas of paint, or smooth areas. I use a lot of these. |

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Palette: My palette consists of about 19
transparent, semi-opaque and opaque colors, no black. I mix all my colors - I rarely if
ever use paint straight from the tube. I prefer Winsor Newton Artist Quality Watercolors
and Da Vinci Artist Quality Watercolors. I pay attention to the permanence rating and try
to keep only permanent colors on my palette - except for Winsor Newton's Rose Madder
Genuine because I just love this color. In this painting, the colors I used for the wash
and some detail in the face and hair were mixed from Aureolin, Rose Madder Genuine and
Cobalt Blue, in varying amounts to make colors ranging from a peachy flesh tone to a
brownish shadow tone. Some Cadmium Orange was used in the hair. The darker and darkest
colors were mixed from Alizarin Crimson and Winsor Green. The lips were mixed from Cadmium
Red Light and Alizarin Crimson, with a touch of Cobalt Blue towards the corners of the
mouth. The background is Winsor Violet and French Ultramarine Blue.
to visit my page that details the colors on my palette. |

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Step One: After stretching the watercolor paper (by soaking it in my bathtub,
and than stapling it to gatorboard while it is still wet, and then letting it dry flat) I
lightly sketch a pencil guideline - without erasing (easers are abrasive on the delicate
tooth of the paper and can mess up the painting!) of my subject. |

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Step Two: I like to start with a
large easy area first. I chose the hair - I mix a light color that will end up being the
highlight color.
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Step Three: Next I mix a light wash
for the face - leaning it heavily towards the overall skin tone - red, yellow, blueish or
greenish. Working light to dark, I also mix some darker hair color and begin
"shaping" the hair with my brush.
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Step Four: At this point I am ready
to paint some detail in the facial area. I mix a darker skin tone and shape the face. I
pay very close attention to the eyes, because this is the area people most identify with
so they have to be accurately rendered.
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Step Five: Before I finish up the entire painting, I like to paint in the
background so that I can use some of that color in other areas of the painting - this
connects the subject with the background so you don't have anything "floating"
around in the work. In this case, I used the purplish background color in the subject's
hair. When I sign the work, I consider it done and I (to the best of my ability) refrain
from "nit-noid touch ups". Now it's your turn! |


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